Wednesday, June 10, 2015

After we left the Western Wall plaza, we ascended a long series of stairs up to the Jewish Quarter, where we stopped for lunch, then headed for the Four Sephardic Synagogues. The synagogues in question are all adjacent. After the 1948 Arab-Israeli war, the synagogues were desecrated and turned into horse stables. Most synagogues in Jerusalem were destroyed or desecrated during the 19 year Jordanian occupation of Jerusalem.

The Four Synagogues are the: Yochanan ben Zakai Synagogue, the Istanbuli Synagogue, the Eliyahu Hanavi Synagogue, and the Emtsai(Middle) Synagogue.

We then headed to the Tomb of King David. The tomb is somewhat questioned as to its authenticity. Many scholars agree that King David was not buried in this location. There has been no scientific analysis on the contents of the tomb. Our guide suggested he had been reinterred here subsequently, but I couldn’t find anyone else mentioning that theory. Either way, the entire complex, which also includes the room where the Last Supper allegedly happened, is administered by Yeshiva University, who offers free access to all. The tomb also doubles as a synagogue.

We also visited the Tower of David…also not associated with David. It is a Citadel that dates to the Mamluk and Ottoman periods. A Herodian era foritification also stood on the same site. You remember Herod, the King who our tour guide repeatedly called a meshugana paranoid. I kept challenging him, pointing out if people actually wanted to kill you, you technically weren’t paranoid. On the other hand, he did execute several members of his immediate family. So, who knows?

It is currently a museum of the 4000 years of the history of Jerusalem. The best part was the view from the top of the Citadel.

After the day’s activities, we spent a brief time at the hotel pool. It was at the top of the hotel. The water was cold, and no one was in it. The only people around aside from the disinterested lifeguard were two old women reading their Kindles.

After a brief rest, it was time for a birthday celebration. It was my birthday, so my father and I headed down to the lobby, asking for a good light place. This continues the lesson I learned…Don’t trust Israeli hotel concierges.

Following the directions given, we headed down toward the German Colony. We walked a long distance till we finally arrived at the place he recommended….which closed down, according to the sign, 2 weeks earlier. Tired and hungry, we ended up having dinner at a Waffle Factory. I had a birthday waffle with ice cream.

My father valiantly tried to explain to the server that it was my birthday. Considering the other birthday celebrant in the room whom they did acknowledge, I’m chalking it up to a language barrier.

In our next portion, we visit the New City.

On the afternoon of Tuesday, June 9th, 2015, we proceeded through the West Bank to Jerusalem.

As we headed toward Mt. Scopus, our guide put on Yerusalayim Shel Zahav, written in 1967. The song was written by Naomi Shemer, commissioned by Mayor Teddy Kollek, and apparently unintentionally inspired by a Basque lullaby. The song was performed for the first time on May 15th, and on June 7th, after the Jordanians retreated, eastern Jerusalem and the Old City was under the control of the IDF. Jews, who had been a presence in the city for many generations, had been forced out of the Old City in 1948 when the Jordanians took over. When Shemer heard that the song was being sung at the Western Wall, she added a verse to the song.

It is said that when Jews were not allowed to enter Jerusalem by the city authorities, they used to come to Mt. Scopus and look at the city. Here, we opened a bottle of grape juice to commemorate the occasion.

We then proceeded to the hotel, the Dan Panorama Jerusalem. Like it’s counterpart in Tel Aviv, this was a middle-of-the-road hotel in a good location, not far from the Old City. We didn’t want a big meal, so we took a walk down to Ben Yehuda Street in search of some American food. It marked the first time I have had a McDonald’s hamburger. There are 180 McDonald’s in Israel, and 50 of them are kosher.  The first opened in 1993, and the first kosher one in 1995.

Wednesday, June 10th, 2015

The tour group was nice enough to remember it was my birthday, and wished me a Happy Birthday. Earlier in the week, at Kibbutz Lavi, another member had a birthday and they’d arranged for everyone to sing. Alas, no group meals this day, therefore this was not an option. But heading to the Old City on my birthday…I suppose that made up for it.

The day started with visiting the Kotel…the Western Wall. On Saturday, June 10, 1967…the last day of the Six Day War, the residents of the Moroccan Quarter were evacuated and the section destroyed to expand the area in front of the Western Wall. While this was a controversial decision, the official reasoning was that the area was a slum, and the Israeli government had compensated the residents and resettled them in better housing conditions. Jews had been barred from the area from 1948-1967, and outbreaks of violence at the wall had been an issue dating back to the 1920s. Jews had, in fact, been trying to buy the area around the wall since 1918 to establish a permanent prayer site.

This is the Western Wall as it appears today. It has changed since coming under Israeli control. On the day we were there, they were preparing for a celebration. A new torah was being presented to the wall.  From what I understand, there is a large ark of torahs at the wall. There was even a group of young schoolchildren practicing a song for the occasion.

I could write for many more hours on the  issues regarding the Old City, the Western Wall, the mosque above the wall…but this is a travel report. I’m trying to, while not ignoring the politics of it, not get sucked in that direction too much. Even within the Jewish community, the Wall is administered under Orthodox rules of gender separation and modesty. There are informal volunteers who will chastise those who do not act according to those rules.

A short distance along the wall, provisions have been made for an egalitarian prayer site near Robinson’s arch. It wasn’t until 2013 that a dedicated area was completed with access as all hours, as the original area was within the confines of the Jewish Archaeological Park.

There have been extension excavations around the Western Wall, and the Temple Mount, which have revealed a great deal about the history of the area. We toured the tunnels beneath the Western Wall, which had been relocated from where I recall them being in 1999. The excavations had been connected to the Hasmonean Water Tunnels, ending under the Convent of the Sisters of Zion, where the Sisters would not permit exit, requiring a turnaround. I recall walking through the tunnels and exiting elsewhere in 1999, but this time, we returned to the entrance by the Western Wall. In 1996, Benjamin Netanyahu authorized the creation of an exit leading to the Via Dolorosa, in the Muslim Quarter. This led to multiple riots at the time, and in 1999, the rule was we had to be escorted back by an armed soldier.

The size of the stones both above and below is amazing. All these were hauled into place without modern construction equipment. The newer rebuilt portions at the top date from a later period, and do not demonstrate the massive skill it must have taken to get these into place.

This is the Southwestern corner of the Temple. The stones sticking out on the western side is Robinson’s arch, the support for a massive staircase the once stood here, dating back to the time of Herod the Great. You get a perspective from this angle the proximity to the Al Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock, at the top.

The Southern Wall is where you can see the excavation of an enormous flight of steps excavated after 1967, that led, via the Hulda Gates, up to the Temple Mount. A series of Umayyad administration buildings and palaces were uncovered just outsiide, which form the rest of the Archaeological park.

I suppose the Western Wall and its surroundings deserve their own part in this series. This part contained more pictures than previous.

Next time in Part 8…More of the Old City..

Drive to Tiberias to visit the Rambam’s grave; proceed to Beit Shean, also called “Scythopolis”, the biggest archeological park in Israel with beautiful excavations from the Roman and Byzantine periods. Stop at Beit Alpha to see the beautiful mosaic floor of a synagogue from the Byzantine period. Onto Gan Hashlosha, (Sachne) where you will have an opportunity to enjoy in the water springs located at the foots of the Gilboa mountain, the famous mountain on which King Saul was killed in the battle against the Philistines. Continue via the Jordan Valley to Jerusalem; stop at Mount Scopus for a blessing as you enter the city.

Tuesday morning, we bid a fond farewell to Kibbutz Lavi…home of powdered eggs…but good wifi and headed toward the city of Tiberias. Tiberias dates back to Roman times, and is well known for its hot springs and their alleged healing powers.

Our first stop in the city was the grave of Rabbi Moshe ben Maimon, aka Rambam or Maimonides. He was born in 1135, and died in 1204 in Egypt, after which his body was buried in Tiberias. He was well known as not just a Rabbi, but a physician. Maimonides shares a grave with Rabbi Isaih Horowitz and Yochanan ben Zakai.

The tomb is separated, so men and women can pray separately.

I’m not sure what Maimonides might have thought of this. This is a more recent development. I understand that Jews who believe in having a separation of the sexes feel very strongly about this, however, it seems disrespectful to the man’s memory on some level.

They do the same thing at the tomb of King David…or one of them(more on that later).

After this, we got dragged to the Caprice Diamond Exchange in Tiberias, which is not on the official tour list. We were told this was a special treat. I hate to cast aspersions on our tour operators, but I’m assuming the treat was the possibility they might get a kickback. I have little to no interest in shopping for diamonds. Sorry.

Leaving Tiberias, we started to head toward Jerusalem, with some stops along the way. I’m six parts into this story and we haven’t even reached Jerusalem yet, and I am certainly leaving some details out as we go.

We headed toward Beit She’an, at the junction of the Jordan River Valley and the Jezreel Valley. The location made it strategically important, and has been occupied for 8000 years or so. The ruins of the ancient city of Beit She’an are now part of a National Park.

It was hot. I’d like to say I’ve learned a lot about keeping hydrated, but I still think I could stand some improvement in that area. Not sure if I’ll get into travel preparations at any point.

The excavations are extensive and impressive, and began in 1921-1923 by the University of Pernnsylvania, who found relics from the Egyptian Period.

Excavations resumed in 1983 by Hebrew University and then again in the 90s. The excavations have revealed no less than 18 ancient towns.

After Beit She’an, we proceeded to Beit Alpha. It is a the ruins of a late fifth-century synagogue located near Beit She’an. It was uncovered in 1928 by members of Kibbutz Hefzibah, and was excavated the following year. Additional excavations were made in 1962.

The mosaics depict the Binding of Isaac, the scene of a synagogue…and quite strangely, the Zodiac. Apparently it was popular at the time, as several other synagogues of the period show zodiac symbols. They showed us a dramatic video of how this might have come to be.

Finally, to close off the day before heading to Jerusalem, we headed to  Gan HaShlosha, which has natural warm water pools for swimming. They seem to make a good amount renting towels though. My father and I took a quick swim here before heading toward Jerusalem.

After this last stop, we headed through the West Bank toward Jerusalem. More on that in Part 7…yes, we finally talk about Jerusalem.

“As the smoke subsided, thousands of Galilee settlers, climbed out of their shelters. For the first time in nearly 20 years they could look up at the Golan Heights with pride instead of fear.”

At Mitzpe Gadot there is a tall, triangular concrete monument to commemorate fallen Israeli soldiers of the 33rd Battalion of the Golani Brigade, located at one of the former Syrian bases as well as several subsequent conflicts.

You realize how small Israel actually is when you figure out how close the Lebanon, Syrian, and Jordan borders are. Israel is only slightly larger than New Jersey.

After this, we headed to the Banias, a spring associated with the Greek deity Pan. An ancient shrine to Pan was discovered here. I couldn’t learn about it, because in order to listen to the informational message on the shrine of Pan, you had to pay. I cheaped out, so I had to read about it on my phone.

The Banias was captured from the Syrians on my birthday, June 10th, 1967(prior to actual date of birth) from the Syrians, as part of an attempt to secure against the previously mentioned efforts to divert water away from Israel.

During this point, we were extremely close to the Syrian border and the Lebanon border…and later on the Jordan border. We were within sight of the United Nations Disengagement Observer Force, established in 1974. The UNDOF administrated buffer zone is 50 miles long, and 146 square miles, and seems likely to continue indefinitely. The mission has been attacked several times during the recent Syrian Civil War.

Quneitra, a controversial city in Syria, was a distant view away. In the 50s, the population of the city was about 20,000. The city was abandoned by the Syrians, who falsely

broadcast it had been conquered by the Israelis. The Israelis took advantage of the confusion to actually conquer the city. Syria shelled the abandoned city several times during the 1970s. The year after the Yom Kippur War, in 1974, the Israelis agreed to return the city to Syria under the condition it be repopulated as a sign of peaceful intentions between the two nations.

Syria has built a museum to memorialize the city’s destruction. They discourage repopulation of the area and have left it in its destroyed condition.

The final stop of the day was the Tel Hai monument. In 1999, I had stayed at the nearby Tel Hai Youth Hostel on my trip, but I do not have any recollection of visiting the monument.

In 1919, the British relinquished Tel Hai to French jurisdiction. The local Arabs wanted to be part of the new Arab Kingdom of Syria rather than under French rule. Zionists in Tel Hai remained neutral. The area was subject to frequent border readjustments. However, as newcomers they were suspected of being pro-French.

On March 1, 1920, several hundred Shiites attacked Tel Hai. Initially demanding to search the Kibbutz for French soldiers, violence escalated. There is some historical dispute about how things played out. Either the search was a ruse, or a series of misunderstandings escalated into a full conflict which ultimately killed eight Jews and ultimately led to the destruction of the village.

The city of Kiryat Shemonah is named after the eight Jews who died during the Battle of Tel Hai.

This ended Monday.

We’re still not at Jerusalem. Next time on Israel…Part 6: Tiberias, Beit Shean, Beit Alpha, and Gan Hashlosha…before we arrive into Jerusalem.

On Sunday evening, we arrived at Kibbutz Lavi. Kibbutz Lavi’s hotel facility is one of their main sources of income and popular with Orthodox Jews. They also make synagogue furniture and engage in the traditional Kibbutz business of agriculture. Agriculture is no longer the primary business of any kibbutz, from what I understand.

Compared to the two hotels I visited, the room was nice, the wifi at the Kibbutz was good, the staff was friendly, and the food…left a bit to be desired. The eggs were powdered, for example. It seemed to be more like a public school cafeteria.

Tzfat was the first stop on Monday. It is the highest city in Israel in terms of elevation. The Jewish presence in the city dates back to the Middle Ages. After the Spanish Inquisition expelled the Jews from Spain, it became a center of Jewish learning, and is considered a center of Kaballah even to this day. Notably, Joseph Caro, the author of the Shulchan Aruch and Shlomo Halevi Alkabetz, composer of Lecha Dodi, which is sung as part of the Friday evening service.

In Tzfat, we visited a gallery of artwork by Nicky Imber. Imber was an artist who was so skilled, when at Dachau, he’d been able to make a mask out of break and sand of one of the Nazi soldiers, steal a uniform, and walk out of the gates of the camp. His sculptures are still famous worldwide.

We then visited the Joseph Caro synagogue, built in the 16th century, and rebuilt after a 1759 and an 1837 Earthquake. It was originally a place of learning, and didn’t become a synagogue until 1903.

The other synagogue visited was the Ha’ Ari Synagogue, built in honor of Rabbi Isaac Luria, the Ari. It may be the oldest synagogue in Israel still in active use. The distinction is questionable, because there are many repeatedly destroyed synagogues that have been rebuilt, in some cases after many years of destruction, including the Karaite Synagogue in Jerusalem.

After touring both, we wandered around the Artist’s Quarter…otherwise known as random people trying to sell us things. There were some nice items, but nothing so nice I could see myself hauling it around for a week to bring home. The most surprising part was a woman who greeted us “Good Morning” and called me out when she didn’t hear my low and noncommittal response. It turned out, by odd coincidence, when we did speak to her, she had grown up in Westchester and had gone to school with my cousin. Small world.

Later that day, we headed toward the Golan Heights, taking a jeep tour of the area. And when I say a jeep tour, I mean it. Bumpy unpaved roads, dust flying everywhere(and me wearing a dark shirt that day)…certainly an experience.

And then we get to the Jordan River. There it is….surprisingly tiny, isn’t it? I’m assuming that when Johnny Cash sung about waiting on the Far Bank of the River Jordan…he hadn’t seen it.

The Jordan River is 156 miles long, running from its sources to the Sea of Galilee, and then a lower section down to the Dead Sea. South of the Sea of Galilee, it forms the border between Israel and the Kingdom of Jordan. The flow of the Jordan has been sharply reduced by Israel, Jordan, and Syria. Prior to the Six-Day War, in 1965, Syria, Jordan, and Lebanon attempted to divert some of the sources of the Jordan River in order to reduce Israel’s water supply.

I remember visiting the Golan Heights the last time I was in Israel. And I remember signs like these, and being told that they still, years after the Golan Heights were captured in 1967 and annexed in 1981, the mines were still a threat. The Heights are a plateau, from which the Syrian Army attacked Israeli communities in the valley below by firing artillery shells. Without getting into the politics of it, which date back to 1923, returning the Golan Heights to Syria would leave Israel at significant risk.

On June 6th, 1967, Syria launched three attacks against Israeli positions. On June 8th, 48 years to the day that I was there, the Israeli Air Force bombarded the Syrian positions on the Golan Heights.

After 16 years, it is hard to reconstruct the last trip I took here, but it was part of the March of the Living, and I was asked to take notes. I’ve pulled what I wrote that day, after writing my recollection of the more recent trip.

Tuesday, April 20, 1999 – We had gone up the mountain in jeeps, and also returned that way for a nature hike, which was cut short. Bret Gutstein once again appears in this document, hitting me with a large piece of bamboo.

I looked up Bret Gutstein…I believe she is now running a bagel seasoning business in New York.

More on 1999 later, especially since, combining all this material makes me think my narrative here is going to last a lot more parts…we haven’t even reached Jerusalem yet. I had forgotten I still had this notebook till I was writing about the Golan Heights.

Next time on Israel….we visit the the Memorial at Mitzpe Gadot, the Banias Springs, and Tel Hai. And more…Israel: Then and Now.